Uncle Mike's Sling Swivel Studs for Wood and Synthetic Stocks and Forend

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SKU: 100-UM-25200
UPC: 043699252008
Manufacturer: Uncle Mike's

I recently acquired a laminated stock from E.A. Brown to pair with my Ruger 10/22. As the stock didn't come with any sling studs, I needed to purchase one to attach my folding bipod. I managed to find two studs for just $4. While the installation process wasn't too challenging, it did require some tinkering. Firstly, I drilled a pilot hole that was the same diameter as the shank of the stud, the full length of the stud. However, I noticed that when I began to screw in the stud, it started to chip and crack the surface of the stock. To prevent any further damage, I stopped and then drilled a 1/8" countersink hole, which was the diameter of the threads. After doing so, I started the stud again and this time, everything went smoothly. The washer space and the top of the stud managed to conceal the minor chipping that occurred initially, and the bipod attached effortlessly, looking great in the process.

I utilized this swivel screw to successfully attach a bipod to my synthetic 10/22 stock, and it is an excellent product. To do so, I drilled a slightly smaller hole and inserted a small piece of PVC into the skeleton of the synthetic stock. I then carefully threaded the swivel screw in and tightened it up perfectly. I am thrilled with the results. As I opted for the 3/4 inch size, I still have the 1/2 inch one for future use.

After the sling mount on my crossbow broke, I found the ideal solution in this sling stud. First, I removed the old mount and smoothed it out. Then, I created a pilot hole and easily screwed the new stud into the plastic injection-molded stock. A helpful tip is to use a drill bit that fits snugly into the stud hole to ensure the correct size. This drill bit can also be used to turn the stud into the stock with care, making sure not to force it and risk breakage.

The Uncle Mike's Sling Swivel Stud 115 RGS Set is a great product that works perfectly. I would definitely buy it again. It's important to use the correct size pilot bit and to cover the drilling area with masking tape to prevent splintering around the hole. Overall, I'm very satisfied with this purchase.

This sling studs for the synthetic stock was straightforward to use, but the instructions seemed off on one of the holes. It was a little loose, and I had to add glue to hold it in, so I would use a smaller bit than instructed. These were put on an early Ruger 10-22, which did not have sling studs. I chose these without the swivels because the sling I chose had them. They were cheap and easy to use and had a professional look when done

I installed one of these in a wooden stock as it was intended, no even there, and I installed the other in the LMT stock on an M4A1. Both are holding, and I don't imagine one can ask any more from such an item.

You need two (2) different size drill bits, or you can buy a particular bit from UM. I just used two drill bits I had in the garage. It would be best to use a drill press, so you get the stud mounded straight, but you can do a fair job with a hand drill. The sling swivel stud synthetic stock come with instructions, but again, you need to pay attention and make sure you drill straight up & down, and not at an angle to the stock. You might get the location/center-right, but the stud needs to go in straight! It's not hard but pays attention.

I used these two swivel studs in an unorthodox way. Since I lost one screw for a rear wooden stock, the longer screw was applied there. For the shorter screw, I installed it at the 6 o'clock forward position of my DPMS LR-308 free float tube. I started with a smaller drill bit very slowly to not have it slide all over the tube and scratch it up. Using a punch tool was not an option as I did not want to risk bending the free-float tube. I worked my way up one more bit size to allow it to be a tight fit into the tube. It was only possible with these COARSE threads, not the FINE threaded screws out there. Upon setting the screw, I added a small goop of gorilla glue to the inside for extra measure. The reason I didn't use loc-tite was I didn't want to chance me ruining the threads. It had just 'tapped' on its own by me backing it out. I don't plan on removing it, it's intended for a harris bipod, I have a sling attached to the bipod, and it has not wiggled loose. It has stayed in place since summer of 2009.

These Sling Swivel Studs are Excellent for adding sling mounts to the rifle stock that didn't have them originally. Tip: drill a pilot about 1/2 the screw diameter to avoid splitting the wood and lubricate the threads with a bar of soap. Countersinking the hole with a larger drill finished the job. I've chosen not to use the fiber washer as they have a tendency to split over time.

Excellent quality and low price. I bought this to mount a bipod on a 10-22 and worked like a charm. I bought four more for future use for slings or bipod. This kit also comes with white spacers that I think add just a touch of class to a beautiful wood stock.

Great for adding sling mounts to the beast that didn't have them initially. Make sure to drill a pilot about 1/2 the screw diameter to avoid splitting the wood. An old carpenter trick is to lubricate the threads with a bar of soap. Countersinking the hole with a larger drill finished the job. I've chosen not to use the fiber washer as they tend to split over time. I tried to find a picture of one that I did and can't tell the difference between the factory mounts and these.