Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black Touch-Up 3oz

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5.0

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Would recommend this product.

100%

SKU: 174-BC-15125
UPC: 029057151251
Manufacturer: Birchwood Casey
MFG#: 15125

Followed the directions and all my scratches disappeared.

If the part is clean, Birchwood Casey aluminum black seems to work fine. I've used mineral spirits to clean the elements, and the color holds without issue and does not rub off. As stated in other reviews, the secret is a CLEAN PART before applying the AB. The color may not match in every application, but it is made for touching up, not refinishing. That it does.

birchwood casey aluminum black I use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black for small areas and parts such as trigger guards on some rifles and shotguns, but not on large areas. For example, I recently worked on a S&W Model 12-2 airweight revolver that had only a couple of slight scratches on the frame around the cylinder release. This is the process I followed: The first step is to clean the part or area to be touched-up thoroughly. Start with Breakfree CLP and then finish cleaning with acetone. I buy acetone by the gallon. Let me underline this: the part must be clean, clean, clean. No grease, no oil, no powder residue, no hand oils, no fingerprints, no moisture, no nothing. After that, make sure it's clean. Next, using a cotton swab, a.k.a. Q-tip, apply the Al Black to the subject area. Use plenty of it. Soak it. Keep rubbing until the aluminum turns black. In most cases, this means two or three drops of Al Black, but in any case, soak the area. After it has turned black, give it a minute or two to rest and then blot it dry and clean it with acetone. I have found that the chemical will sometimes leave a little residue, a hazy spot. No problem. Simply wipe with a terry cloth towel and a little Breakfree or other good lubricant. That's all there is to it. For larger areas like the trigger guard I mentioned, once again the secret is cleaning. If you leave any contamination at all, the Al Black simply will not get through it and won't work or will be blotchy. I have occasionally strung pieces on a wire and dipped them into the AL Black once they were clean, clean, clean, and dry. (It's not a good idea to have the part dripping acetone when you dip it into the chemical.) I usually figure on repeating the application process at least three times on small parts, but only once on blemishes.

I had used to work for a gun store, so I had used this birchwood Casey aluminum black touch-up before. This is the first time that I purchased some for myself to test on a Remington 870 Police trigger group that I bought. The trigger came in beat-up shape with deep scratches on the trigger guard and very little black paint left, but miraculously, I was able to cover up all the exposed metal without having to repaint the trigger guard at all! Amazing.

Make an idiot mark on your stripped lower as I did? This tiny bottle saved me a lot of grief! Works as advertised. I did multiple treatments, although that probably isn't required. It looks great. The scratch can still be found, but you'd have to look for the ever so slight difference in color. If you have a large area to treat this probably wouldn't do it... but small areas in inconspicuous places it works very well.

I was skeptical. I expected aluminum black metal finish to be a paint of some kind, but it's not. It is a clear chemical that changes the aluminum to black chemically, and it works great. The final finish is very durable and is black. Just a tip- use a new Qtip every time you dip into the bottle; otherwise, you will contaminate the whole bottle. I noticed this because I poured out a little into the cap and dipped the same Qtip a few times, and the liquid in the cap turned black too.

I used Birchwood Casey aluminum black as soon as I got it and it didn' impress me Bc it seemed to work fine and fast then after rinsing my rail I wiped it down, and it came back off, so I tried it five or six times more, and it still didn't seem to do anything so I did it one last time and gave up. Two days later, I looked at it, and it seemed to be rusting? So I took a Q-tip and rubbed off the rust? And put some oil on it and presto after two days of letting it work and dry the oil showed that it was a good match! you can tell if you look real hard and know where to look, but I was satisfied. ( let it work a couple of days and then put oil on it, and you should be happy with results)

Perfect refinish product for my aluminum and steel alloy parts. The harder the steel, the more additional applications were needed. Heat area to be treated with a heat gun just prior, then apply, then light heat as the product dries. Apply sparingly to the area with a cue-tip, try to use the surface tension of the liquid to constrain the treated area to the scratch. Rinse with water between applications, if touching up a parkerized area, treat with oil after to drive out moisture from the porous ceramic finish of the park and prevent corrosion. degrease with a spray solvent prior to treating the affected area.

OK. You really, really need to understand how to use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black Touch-Up like this. When they say clean, they mean CLEAN. Multiple times clean. I use 99% rubbing alcohol after cleaning with soap and water. 3-4 times, let the alcohol flash off in between. Saturate -it seems to work best when pretty wet- a cotton swab or cotton ball. Wear gloves. Smells like rotten eggs, ventilation is probably a good idea. Wipe until you start to see it reacting. Leave it a little bit, then clean it off and lightly oil it to stop it reacting. No, I do not use water, I have a spray bottle of mineral oil and have been using it for a long time. Some spots it takes 2-3 times going through all the steps before I am happy with the results, but it is worth it versus stripping everything down and setting up to anodize.

I used Birchwood Casey Black Touch-Up for Aluminum on a lower receiver, and it came out fantastic. The aluminum has to be super clean. I first use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and after that dried I brushed the area with acetone. As soon as it was dry, I started wiping on the chemical. I didn't have to let it dry I just kept brushing it around until I was satisfied with the color. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and rinse with water. Very satisfied with the results. The temp was about 85, and I think being warm might help the process.

I used the Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black Touch-Up On my S&W j-frame, which was showing bare metal along the rear sights from holster wear. This was in touch upon a small area. I prepped with steel wool and alcohol. I applied with a cotton swab. The first application was blotchy, but a second application darkened the metal nicely and evenly. I let the applications air dry in between and then rubbed with a cotton rag. The effect was a matte black, which was slightly shinier than the surrounding factory paint. There also appeared to be a rim of slight dulling of the paint around the treated area; however, following the recommendations on the bottle, I applied a little gunstock wax and buffed the area. This blended in the treated area with the surrounding paint very well, giving a more even look. Total time was 20 minutes with a very satisfactory result. I don't know about durability at this point, but since this is a chemical reaction rather than a layer of paint, I imagine it should be reasonably durable. Besides, the application is so easy and gives a result I can live with, I don' t think I'd have any problems with having to re-treat after a reasonable amount of time. Excellent product that does what it claims for its regular use.